When it comes to knowing what is the best paint for trim and baseboards, then the only thing that comes to my mind is to use quality paint to make it work for a long time.
Quality paint looks better.
It holds up something which looks better on the trim and baseboards and holds its color long, goes on without creating a mess or make it look weird and you can clean it without any thinking.
Look, I’ve been painting trim for years now. And I’ve learned that cheap paint on baseboards is a decision you’ll regret every time.
The thing is, trim takes MORE dirt than your walls.
Baseboards get kicked, scuffed, bumped by furniture, hit by vacuum cleaners. Door casings get touched constantly. Window trim is there dealing with moisture and temperature changes.
So, I’m going to walk you through what is the best paint for trim and baseboards. It is based on reality and I’ve used it on projects where homeowners say it still looks fresh.
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What Makes the Best Paint For Trim and Baseboards?
Here’s what I look for when I’m picking paint for trim work.
Durability is number one. If your paint can’t take a hit, it’s useless on baseboards. You need something that hardens up properly and doesn’t show every mark soon.
Then there’s the self-leveling thing and this matters a lot. Self-leveling paint flows out smoothly and makes your brush marks disappear.
But without it, you’re going to see every stroke, every little mark and it’s going to look too weird.
Adhesion is important too. The paint needs to stick to whatever was there before. Most trim has been painted already and multiple times. You need something that bonds properly to that old surface.
And yellowing resistance is non-negotiable if you’re using white or off-white. I’ve seen gorgeous trim turn into a cream color because of the cheap paint.
The finish matters. You want something you can CLEAN without removing the paint like semi-gloss or satin. Don’t get fancy with flat paint on trim… I tried it once on a rental property to save money and I had to repaint the whole thing.
Also, cure time and dry time. Paint may feel dry in a few hours, but it takes weeks to cure and harden. The best trim paints cure into the tough surface that can handle cleaning and contact.
Best Paint For Trim and Baseboards: Best Recommendations to Consider
Alright, let me walk you through the paints I trust. These aren’t just names but I’ve used every single one of these on real projects, seen how they hold up, dealt with their quirks. Some of these are EXPENSIVE, some are reasonable.
So, let’s go and see what is the best paint for trim and baseboards.
Benjamin Moore Advance
This is the one I recommend most.
Benjamin Moore Advance is a waterborne alkyd, which means it’s water-based but acts like oil paint. You get the smooth, hard finish that oil paint is famous for, but you clean your brushes with soap and water.
When I first used it, I was confused because how could water-based paint give that glassy smooth finish?
But it does.
The self-leveling on this stuff is incredible. You brush it on, and it flows out. Brush marks disappear and it’s almost magical.
Now, the important thing to remember is it takes a very long time to dry.
And the cure time, it takes a full month. But when it gets cured, it’s indestructible. I’ve had clients scrub their baseboards with cleaning products and the paint doesn’t get off.
I get this in semi-gloss for most trim work. The coverage is solid…. one gallon does about 3-4 rooms with two coats if we’re talking standard 8-foot ceilings.
The smell is low. You can sleep in the room that night without feeling like you’re huffing chemicals.
If we talk about the price, it’s almost high, like $70-80 per gallon.
Sherwin Williams Emerald Urethane
This is the professional painter’s choice.
Sherwin Williams Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel is a hybrid formula, combining that oil-based durability with water-based convenience.
I buy this when the project needs to be done FASTER than Advance allows. The dry time is better. You can recoat in about 4 hours if conditions are good.
The finish is hard. The urethane formula creates a tough surface that stands up to cleaning and works well.
I used this on a client’s kitchen cabinets and baseboards and she has three kids and a dog. The trim still looks fresh like no yellowing, no chips, barely any scuff marks even on the baseboards near the back door.
The application is smooth. Not quite as self-leveling as Advance, but close.
The price is similar to Advance, like around $75-85 depending on where you buy it.
One thing I like about this is mold and mildew resistance. If you’re painting trim in a bathroom or basement, this is a smart choice.
Behr Urethane Alkyd Enamel
This is your mid-range option.
I know Behr gets a bad reputation sometimes…. but their Urethane Alkyd Enamel is solid for trim work.
You can only get it at Home Depot, which is either convenient or annoying depending on where you live.
The price is better, around $50-60 per gallon. So if you’re doing a whole house of trim, that savings adds up.
It’s another waterborne alkyd formula. The finish is hard and durable once it cures. But not like Advance or Emerald, but close enough for most situations.
I use this on rental properties and flips where the budget is tight. It holds up well and it looks professional.
The self-leveling is decent. You’ll see some brush marks if you’re not careful with your technique. But if you know what you’re doing, you can get a nice finish.
Dry time is moderate about 6-8 hours between coats.
The smell is low, which is nice.
Farrow and Ball Modern Eggshell
Farrow and Ball is the luxury British paint brand that interior designers get excited about.
I’ve used their Modern Eggshell on trim for high-end clients who specifically request it. Because they want the whole room in Farrow and Ball colors and they want everything to match perfectly.
The colors are gorgeous, rich and deep. Even the whites have this beautiful quality to them.
But you’re paying for the name and the colors. The performance is good, but not better than Advance or Emerald.
It’s water-based, the finish is more satin than true eggshell despite the name. It’s durable for trim, though I wouldn’t use it on baseboards in a high-traffic area.
The price makes me wince every time, like $110+ per gallon.
Valspar Cabinet and Furniture Enamel
Valspar Cabinet and Furniture Enamel is available at Lowe’s, and it’s really good for trim work.
I started using this when a client wanted to stay on a tight budget but wanted quality. I was pleasantly surprised.
It’s a urethane-fortified acrylic enamel. This means it’s water-based but has urethane in it for extra hardness and durability.
The finish is smooth and hard once cured and self-leveling is pretty good, also coverage is solid.
The price is reasonable, around $45-55 per gallon depending on sales.
I’ve used this on doors, baseboards, and window casings and it holds up well.
The only downside is availability. If you don’t have a Lowe’s nearby, you’re not going to use it.
PPG Breakthrough
PPG Breakthrough is designed for fast-curing projects.
You can recoat in 2 hours. It’s fully cured in about 7 days instead of 30.
I use this when the timeline is tight. Like when someone’s moving in next week and we need to get trim painted and usable quickly.
The adhesion is exceptional. You can paint over glossy surfaces without sanding in some cases, though I recommend at least scuff-sanding.
It’s water-based, low VOC, minimal smell.
The finish is hard and durable. Scuff resistance is excellent.
Coverage is really good. One coat covers if you’re going white over white.
The price is moderate to high. Around $65-75.
The downside is it can be hard to find.
Dunn-Edwards ARISTOSHIELD
Dunn-Edwards ARISTOSHIELD is a water-based urethane alkyd that’s popular with professional painters in California and the western states.
I’ve used it on projects out west. It performs similarly to Advance and Emerald….it is great self-leveling, hard durable finish, low VOC.
The dry time is faster than Advance.
The price is comparable around $70-80.
If you’re in an area where Dunn-Edwards has stores, this is a solid choice.
Rust-Oleum
This is your budget option.
Rust-Oleum Painter’s Touch or their trim paint options are available everywhere like in the hardware stores, big boxes, even some grocery stores.
Is it the best? No.
But will it work in a pinch? Yes.
I’ve used this on rental property baseboard touch-ups, quick fixes, situations where the paint needs to be better than what’s there now without spending much money.
The price is cheap, like $25-35 per gallon.
It’s water-based, it dries fast and the coverage is okay.
The durability is fine. It’s not going to hold up like the premium options. You’ll see scuffs.
Behr Ultra Scuff Defense
This is Behr’s paint at a premium trim.
Behr Ultra Scuff Defense is a paint-and-primer-in-one formula with extra scuff resistance built in.
It’s water-based acrylic. Not a true alkyd, but enhanced with extra hard resins.
I’ve used this on baseboards specifically because of the scuff-resistance marketing. And it resists scuffs better than regular wall paint.
The price is mid-range about $50-60 per gallon at Home Depot.
The self-leveling is moderate and better than standard latex, not as good as true alkyds.
Dry time is fast, like around 4-6 hours between coats.
It’s a solid choice if you’re staying in the Behr ecosystem and want something better than basic paint without jumping to the urethane alkyd.
Behr Alkyd Semi-Gloss Enamel
This is Behr’s older oil-based option.
Behr Alkyd Semi-Gloss Enamel is a traditional oil-based paint.
I rarely use this anymore because of the smell, the VOCs, the cleanup but it creates an absolutely rock-hard finish.
If you want MAXIMUM durability and you don’t mind dealing with oil paint hassles, this is an option.
The finish is incredibly smooth and glossy. It levels beautifully, it’s basically bulletproof once cured.
But the smell is strong. You need mineral spirits for cleanup. Dry time is long. And it will yellow over time if you use white.
The price is moderate around $40-50.
What are the tools and materials required to paint the trim and baseboards?
You can’t take any random brush and expect professional results.
Here’s what I use.
A good 2-inch angled brush is essential. I prefer synthetic bristles for water-based paints. Brands like Purdy or Wooster. They’re $15-25 for a brush, but they last forever if you clean them properly and they make your life easy.
Cheap brushes shed bristles into your paint. They leave visible stroke marks. They don’t hold enough paint.
Painter’s tape. I use FrogTape or 3M blue tape. The cheap stuff bleeds. You’ll spend more time fixing bleed-through than you saved on tape.
Drop cloths. Canvas is best, but plastic works if you’re careful. But cover your floors. Paint drips are inevitable.
Sandpaper. I keep 100-grit and 220-grit handy. The 100-grit for heavier sanding on rough spots. The 220-grit for light scuff-sanding between coats.
Wood filler for any holes or dents. I like DAP Plastic Wood or Bondo.
Primer. Don’t skip this. I’ll talk more about it in the next section, but you need a primer for bare wood, stain-blocking, or when switching from oil to latex.
A paint tray or bucket. I prefer a bucket with a brush holder attachment for trim work.
Rags or paper towels for wiping drips immediately.
TSP or deglosser if you’re painting over glossy old paint. You need to clean and dull that surface for new paint to stick.
A small foam roller if you’re doing wide flat trim pieces. A 4-inch roller can speed things up and give you a smooth finish on baseboards.And good lighting too. I bring a work light to see what I’m doing.
How To Paint Trim and Baseboards? Step-By-Step Process
Alright, here’s how I do this.
Trim painting is like 80% prep work and 20% painting. If you skip the prep, your paint will look like garbage no matter how expensive your paint is.
Prepare the Surface
This is where most people fail.
First, clean everything. Trim collects dust, grease, fingerprints, spider webs, all kinds of nasty stuff.
I use TSP (trisodium phosphate) mixed with water and wipe down all the trim. Let it dry completely.
If the trim is glossy, you need to sand it. I use 100-grit or 150-grit sandpaper and go over everything. You’re not trying to remove the paint….but you’re just scuffing it up so the new paint has something to grip.
Fill all the holes and cracks. Every nail hole, every dent, every gap. I use wood filler and a putty knife. Let it dry, then sand it smooth with 220-grit.
Caulk the gaps between the trim and the wall. Use a paintable caulk. Run a bead along the seam, smooth it with your finger, wipe off the excess. This makes the trim look built-in instead of slapped on.
Tape off your walls and floors if you’re not confident with a brush.
Apply Primer
Primer is not optional in these situations.
If you’re painting bare wood, you need a primer. Wood is porous and will suck up paint unevenly without it.
If you’re painting over dark colors or wood stains, you need primer. Otherwise the old color will bleed through.
If you’re switching from oil-based paint to water-based, you need primer. A bonding primer specifically.
If you have knots in the wood or water stains, you need a stain-blocking primer. I use BIN shellac-based primer or Cover Stain. These seal in tannins and stains so they don’t bleed through your topcoat.
Apply primer with a brush, same as you’ll paint. It gets good coverage. Let it dry completely usually 2-4 hours depending on the product.
Start Painting
Load your brush properly. Dip it about an inch into the paint, tap off the excess.
Use long smooth strokes and work in sections. Don’t go back over areas that are starting to dry because you’ll leave marks.
With self-leveling paints like Advance, you can be messy with your strokes because the paint will flow out. But you want decent technique.
Paint with the grain of the wood if you can see it.
Then work from top to bottom. Do crown molding first, then door casings, then baseboards. The way if you drip, you’re dripping onto unpainted stuff below.
Watch for drips constantly. If you see one forming, brush it out immediately.
Cut in carefully where the trim meets the wall. This is where your angled brush earns its money.
Apply the Second Coat
Light sand between coats with 220-grit. Just knock down any imperfections and wipe away the dust.
The second coat goes in the same way as the first.
Sometimes the second coat is easy because you’re covering white primer with white paint…. you can see your coverage better.
Two coats is standard. Sometimes you can get away with one if you’re going light over light. But two coats ensures durability and even coverage.
After the final coat, let it cure properly. Don’t touch it, don’t scrub it, don’t put furniture against it for at least a week.
What are the Best Types of Paint for Trim and Baseboards?
Let me break down your options here for the best types of paint to be considered for trim and baseboards.
Water-Based Acrylic Enamel – This is modern standard trim paint. Easy cleanup, low smell, doesn’t yellow. It is good enough for most situations. Not as hard as other options.
Waterborne Alkyd Enamel – This is the premium choice. Water cleanup but oil-like finish. Self-leveling, hard when cured. This is what I use most. Benjamin Moore Advance and Sherwin Williams Emerald are in this category.
Oil-Based Alkyd – Traditional trim paint. Rock-hard finish, super durable, incredible leveling. But smells terrible, yellows over time, needs mineral spirits for cleanup.
Hybrid Urethane – Water-based paint with urethane for extra hardness. Good middle ground between standard acrylic and true alkyd. Valspar and Behr make these.
Semi-Gloss – Most popular sheen for trim. Durable, easy to clean, shows off the trim profile. This is what I use 80% of the time.
Satin – Less shiny than semi-gloss. More modern looking. Still durable enough. Good if you want trim to be less prominent.
High-Gloss – Maximum shine and durability. Shows every imperfection. Looks very traditional and formal. I only use this when specifically requested.
Conclusion
Looking for the best paint for trim and baseboards isn’t complicated, but you just need to be attentive.
Use quality paint like Benjamin Moore Advance or Sherwin Williams Emerald if you can afford it. Behr Urethane Alkyd if you can’t. But don’t go with the cheapest one because it’ll make an impact on the surface.
Prep properly, clean, sand, fill, prime. This matters more than the paint itself.
Use the right tools because a good brush makes all the difference and then wait and let it cure.
The trim in your house is going to be there for years. Doing it right the first time saves you from having to redo it when everything looks beat up and sad.
FAQs on Best Paint For Trim and Baseboards
White, specifically off-whites like Benjamin Moore’s Chantilly Lace or Simply White, or Sherwin Williams Alabaster. Pure white like Super White works too if you want that bright modern look. White trim frames the room and works with almost any wall color.
Semi-gloss is the traditional choice because it’s durable and easy to clean. But satin is becoming more popular because it’s less shiny and more modern looking. I use semi-gloss on baseboards in high-traffic areas and satin when someone wants a soft look.
White or off-white dominates. Like 85% of the trim I paint is some shade of white. The rest is either painted the same color as the walls for a monochromatic look, or a contrasting color like black or a bold color for a statement.
Yes, if it’s already painted and glossy. You need to scuff it up with 100-150 grit sandpaper so the new paint can grip. If it’s bare wood, you don’t need to sand unless it’s rough. Skipping this step is the number one reason paint peels off later.
