Can You Paint Wallpaper? The Complete Guide

If you are still thinking about that “Can you paint wallpaper?” then let me help you with this one!

You need to be careful with it because you have to look at the type of wallpaper you have on your wall and how you can make your painting successful without any mistakes. 

Also, many people consider this because it adds a splash of color.

But removal of wallpaper can also sometimes be damaging to surfaces, especially if your wallpaper is attached to drywall.

I’ve been working as an interior designer for years now, and this question comes up ALL THE TIME. And I tell them painting over wallpaper isn’t always the shortcut you think it is. Sometimes it works beautifully but other times it doesn’t work well. 

So, let’s go and see if can you paint wallpaper or not.

Also Read:

• Windfresh White Sherwin Williams
• Eider White Sherwin Williams
• Benjamin Moore Louisburg Green

Can You Paint Over Wallpaper?

So can you do this or is it one of the myths that only sounds good.

You CAN paint over wallpaper but whether you should is completely different.

Removing wallpaper is the better option if you want professional, long-lasting results. But sometimes removal isn’t realistic.

The key is understanding when painting over wallpaper will work and when you’re setting yourself up for failure.

Your wallpaper needs to be in good condition. It should be smooth, firmly attached and has no peeling edges, no bubbles or no weird textures. If your wallpaper is lifting at the seams or you can see moisture damage then don’t paint it.

I remember one project where the homeowner insisted their wallpaper was “fine” and I believed them without checking them. And then after two weeks, seams started showing then we ended up having to remove everything.

Here’s what I tell everyone from my personal experience, if you wouldn’t be happy running your hand across the wall, paint isn’t going to fix it. 

The texture, the seams, the small bubbles you think you can ignore, they’ll all show up after you paint. 

What Tools and Materials are Required?

Alright, let’s talk about what you need to pull this off. I’m not going to list every single thing including the stuff you already have, then here’s what matters:

Essential Materials that are required in painting wallpaper:

• Oil-based primer (this is NON-NEGOTIABLE)
• Latex paint for your topcoat (your choice of finish)
• Wallpaper seam adhesive (the squeeze tube kind works great)
• Joint compound or spackle (for filling seams and repairs)
• Fine-grit sandpaper (220-grit usually does it)
• TSP cleaner or degreaser (wallpaper collects more grime than you think)
• Paintable caulk (for edges where wallpaper meets trim)

Tools You’ll Need in Painting Wallpaper:

• Paint roller (3/8 to 1/2 inch nap – not too thick)
• 2 to 2.5 inch angled brush (for cutting in)
• Putty knife or trowel (for applying joint compound)
• Damp sponges (for cleaning)
• Drop cloths (protect your floors because oil-based primer is messy)
• Painter’s tape (if you’re not confident cutting in freehand)

How To Paint Over Wallpaper? Step-by-Step Guide

Here’s where most people get confused, they rush through prep because they’re excited to see color on the walls. The prep work takes longer than the painting, and if you’re spending more time painting than prepping, then you’re doing it wrong. These steps aren’t optional nor suggestions. 

I’m going to walk you through what I do on every wallpaper painting project, including the stuff that seems tedious but matters.

Clean the Surface

The wallpaper is dirty even if it doesn’t look like it is.

Cooking grease if it’s in a kitchen, dust, hand oils, mystery grime…. all of it sitting on that surface waiting to prevent your primer from sticking.

I use a TSP substitute mixed with warm water, the real TSP works better, but it’s harsh stuff and you need gloves. Mix it according to the bottle directions, get a sponge damp and wipe down every inch of the wallpaper.

Pay extra attention to areas around light switches, doorways or anywhere it gets touched by people regularly.

Here’s my method: I work in sections, top to bottom. Wipe with the cleaning solution, then go over it again with clean water to remove residue, then let it dry COMPLETELY. 

If you see any mold or mildew during cleaning then STOP, do not paint over it. The wallpaper needs to come off. Painting over mold traps it there to grow happily under the new paint job.

Repair Damaged Areas

This is where you find out if your wallpaper is in good condition to paint.

Loose seams get wallpaper adhesive. I buy the stuff in squeeze tubes, run a thin bead along the lifted edge, then press it flat with a damp sponge. Wipe away excess adhesive because it dries clear but shiny and paint won’t stick to it properly.

For small tears or holes, I use spackles. Just fill it, let it dry, and sand it smooth.

But these big seams between wallpaper strips. Even if they’re not lifting, you can feel them as a slight ridge. You have two choices here: live with them showing through your paint or fill them with joint compound.

I fill them, it’s tedious but worth it.

I take a putty knife, apply a thin layer of joint compound over the seam, feather it out on both sides so it’s smooth. Let it dry completely, then sand it with fine-grit sandpaper until you can’t feel the ridge more.

This is where I see people apply too much compound and create a hump instead of a flat surface. Apply thin layers and only go with multiple coats if needed.

Sand the Surface Smoothly

When all your repairs are dry, then it’s time to sand.

You’re not sanding the entire wall. You’re smoothing out the areas you repaired and knocking down any bumpy sections.

I use 220-grit sandpaper, which was fine to smooth things out without tearing the wallpaper. Use a light touch because you’re smoothing, not stripping.

After sanding, wipe everything down again with a damp cloth to remove the dust. 

This step may sound small but it makes a difference in the final appearance. These smooth repairs disappear under paint. 

Apply Primer

This is THE most important step and where I see the most failures.

You should use oil-based primer, not water-based or not “all-purpose.” 

Because water-based primers will reactivate the wallpaper adhesive. The water soaks through the paper, hits the old glue, and your wallpaper will slide down the wall or will bubble up.

I watched this when my friend did this and didn’t listen to me. She used a water-based primer because it was easy to clean and within an hour, bubbles started forming. And by the next morning, entire sections were peeling. 

Then she had to remove all the wallpaper anyway, repair the damaged drywall underneath, and start from scratch.

Oil-based primer creates a seal. It comes on top of the wallpaper, locks everything down, prevents moisture from getting through, and gives your paint something to grip.

I use a roller for the main areas and a brush for edges. Don’t oversaturate, if you want good coverage but you’re not trying to drown the wall. One solid coat does it, but if you can still see the wallpaper pattern showing through after it dries, do a second coat.

Start with the Paint

And the last part is to start painting the wallpaper.

Once your primer is dry, you can use regular latex paint in any color and finish you want. I recommend satin or eggshell finishes for walls because they’re durable and hide imperfections better than flat paint, but they’re not as shiny as semi-gloss.

Standard painting technique here is to cut in the edges first with a brush, then roll the main areas. I work in 3×3 foot sections, using a W-pattern with the roller for coverage.

I would recommend applying two coats minimum. The first coat will look patchy, especially if you’re going from a dark wallpaper to light paint or the opposite. The second coat evens everything out.

Let the first coat dry completely before applying the second, it will usually take 4 hours minimum, but overnight is better to see the better look.

And the paint will look different on wallpaper than it does on bare drywall. The texture is slightly different, the way it absorbs is different. It’s not bad, just different. 

Different Types of Wallpaper and How They Affect Painting

Not all wallpaper is the same. The type of wallpaper you’re dealing with changes whether painting is even possible and if it is possible, how much prep work it needs. I’ve worked with almost every wallpaper variety from vintage paper-based stuff to modern peel-and-stick. 

I’m going to break down the main types I mostly work with and tell you what works and what doesn’t, based on real projects where I’ve either succeeded or failed.

Paper-Based Wallpaper

This is the traditional stuff, mainly old installations. Paper-based wallpaper is the BEST type to paint over, ironic since it’s the oldest technology.

The paper is porous, so primer and paint soak in and bond properly. If it’s been on the wall for decades and it’s firmly attached, it’s not going anywhere.

Steps for painting paper-based wallpaper:

• Clean thoroughly
• Check every seam carefully
• Repair any loose areas with wallpaper adhesive
• Fill seams with joint compound if they’re raised
• Prime with oil-based primer
• Paint as normal

I painted over original 1950s paper-based wallpaper in a historic home and it turned out perfect. The paper was so well-adhered it was part of the wall.

Vinyl Wallpaper

Vinyl wallpaper is tricky to paint because it’s not porous, because it’s plastic. 

CAN you paint it? Yes. 

SHOULD you? I say no unless you’re willing to do extra prep.

Steps for painting vinyl wallpaper:

• Determine if it’s vinyl
• Lightly sand the entire surface to rough it up and give paint something to grip 
• Clean thoroughly after sanding to remove dust
• Use a bonding primer specifically designed for slick surfaces 
• Apply paint in thin coats because thick coats can peel

If it’s peel-and-stick vinyl, just remove it. The stuff is designed to come off easily, and painting over it is asking for trouble. The paint won’t adhere properly and you’ll end up with peeling paint AND peeling wallpaper.

Peel and Stick Wallpaper

Don’t paint this please.

This wallpaper is designed to be TEMPORARY. The adhesive is meant to release, not create a permanent bond. If you paint over it, you’re adding weight and moisture, and the temporary adhesive is going to fail.

Why painting peel-and-stick fails:

• Adhesive isn’t designed for the weight of primer and paint
• Often has a vinyl or plastic surface that rejects paint
• Will peel off in chunks, taking your new paint with it
• Removal is EASY, so there’s no reason to paint it

The point of peel-and-stick is that you can change it easily. 

If you want to change the color, peel it off and paint the wall underneath properly.

Textured Wallpaper

Here’s the thing about textured wallpaper, that painting it is possible, but that texture is always going to show through.

If you LIKE the texture and want to change the color, great, then paint it. But if you want smooth walls, then I would recommend not going with it.

Steps for painting textured wallpaper:

• Clean and repair as usual
• Accept that the texture will remain visible
• Prime with oil-based primer
• Apply paint 
• OR skim coat the entire wall with joint compound to hide the texture 

I’ve skim-coated over textured wallpaper when clients wanted smooth walls but removal wasn’t an option. It works, but it’s time-consuming and requires skill to get it smooth. You’re creating a new wall surface on top of the wallpaper.

Fabric Wallpaper

Do not paint fabric wallpaper because it won’t work.

Fabric absorbs paint unevenly, the texture will look awful, and the paint will stiffen the fabric in weird ways. Also, fabric wallpaper is expensive and high-end and painting it is basically ruining it.

Why fabric wallpaper shouldn’t be painted:

• Fabric absorbs liquid unpredictably (causes staining and blotching)
• Paint stiffens fabric fibers (creates weird texture)
• Often has a dimensional texture that looks terrible painted
• Usually costs enough that removal and proper wall prep is worth it

If you have fabric wallpaper and you don’t like it anymore, remove it and start fresh. 

When You Can and Cannot Paint Over Wallpaper?

After years of doing this, I’ve developed what I call my “paint or remove test”, a checklist I run through every time someone asks me about painting their wallpaper. The decision isn’t about whether it’s physically possible but it’s about whether it makes practical sense compared to removing the wallpaper and doing it right. 

This isn’t about following some rules but it’s about understanding your situation, your wall condition, and being honest about the results. Let me break down the downsides and upsides based on the projects I’ve done.

When you CAN paint over wallpaper:

• Wallpaper is completely smooth with no heavy texture, embossing, or fabric elements
• Every seam is firmly attached – when you run your hand over them, you can barely feel them
• No peeling edges anywhere on the wall, especially around corners and baseboards
• The wallpaper is clean and dry with no signs of moisture damage, mold, or mildew
• Only one layer of wallpaper is present (multiple layers create instability)
• The wall underneath is structurally sound – no cracks, holes, or damage you can feel through the paper
• You’re willing to use oil-based primer and do proper surface preparation
• Removal would likely damage old plaster or fragile drywall underneath
• You’re working with paper-based wallpaper that’s been successfully adhered for years
• Budget or timeline constraints make proper removal impractical

When you CANNOT paint over wallpaper:

• Any amount of peeling, bubbling, or loose wallpaper is present
• Multiple layers of wallpaper exist
• Visible mold, mildew, or water stains appear anywhere
• Heavily textured, flocked, or fabric wallpaper covers the walls 
• The drywall underneath is damaged and needs repair anyway (might as well remove and fix properly)
• Seams are visibly lifting or curling and won’t stay down even with adhesive
• High humidity rooms like bathrooms unless you’re using moisture-blocking primer 
• The wallpaper is vinyl peel-and-stick variety 
• You want perfectly smooth, modern walls (texture and seams will show through paint)
• You’re not willing to do proper prep work including priming, repairs, and seam filling

Conclusion

So here’s what I would say after all this….

Can you paint wallpaper? Yes. 

But should you? It depends.

If your wallpaper is in good condition like smooth, well-adhered, properly prepped with oil-based primer then you can get results that look professional. 

But if you’re dealing with peeling seams, textured surfaces, vinyl, or any moisture issues, then you’re setting yourself up for failure. The paint job may look okay for some time, but it won’t last.

The number one mistake I see is skipping the oil-based primer. People hate applying it because of the smell and cleanup, but it’s important. Water-based primer WILL reactivate the adhesive and cause problems.

Look, I’m not going to tell you that painting wallpaper is always the best choice, because it’s not. Removing wallpaper and starting with a properly prepped wall will always give you better, long-lasting results.

FAQs on Can You Paint Wallpaper