When I was told to choose between Sherwin Williams Pure White Vs Alabaster by looking only at the paint swatch…. I told them they look the same.
But when they were on the walls, they were not the same.
Then I came to know the real difference between these two because it is important to understand the technical details…. the LRV, undertones, how lighting makes an effect and more. Because of the details it tells us where they will work and where they don’t.
But, trust me with the right finishes and lighting the color will enhance more….
I’ve painted many rooms with both these whites many times. And here’s what I learned…. you can’t pick a white and call it done.
I made that mistake on my first project where I picked Alabaster thinking “warm white means cozy.” But it was not what we wanted.
So now I’m gonna break down when to use Pure White, when to Alabaster, and how to not make the wrong choice.
Also read:
Color Description of Sherwin Williams Pure White (SW 7005)
Pure White is a “safe neutral white” that doesn’t commit to being so warm OR so cool.
The LRV is at 84, which means it reflects a good amount of light without being so bright. And I’ve used this on every style like from modern condo walls to traditional trim work, and it works.
Now, here’s the thing about Pure White that took me a while to figure out.
It has a subtle gray undertone that keeps it from looking creamy or yellow. Most people don’t see it at first, but when you put it next to Alabaster you’ll see it.
The gray undertone is so slight that it doesn’t look like “gray paint”…. it just looks as clean white which stays neutral.
I remember a project where the client had cool-toned quartz countertops and wanted white cabinets. I tested both Pure White and Alabaster.
-The Alabaster looked OFF next to the cool quartz…. like it was trying too hard to be warm. But Pure White was the perfect match.
The RGB values are approximately 237, 236, 230, and the hex is #EDECE6, if we talk about the technical details. It means in real life that Pure White is a SOFT white, not a one. It won’t blind you like Extra White does.
Where I use Pure White most:
- Trim and doors when the walls are in a warm color
- Whole-house color in modern or transitional homes
- Ceilings that need to feel clean but not cold
- Cabinets in kitchens with marble or white quartz
The finish matters too. I prefer to go semi-gloss for trim and eggshell for walls when using Pure White. The sheen difference creates a subtle contrast that makes the trim shine without needing a different color.
Color Description of Sherwin Williams Alabaster (SW 7008)
Alabaster won Sherwin Williams Color of the Year in 2016, and…. I get why.
This is the white everyone asks for when they say “I want white walls but not COLD white walls.” It has a warmth that makes spaces feel inviting.
The LRV is 82, which is darker than Pure White but you won’t notice the difference unless you see them side by side.
Alabaster has a warm beige-cream undertone with a hint of yellow. Not like…. Too much yellow, but it’s there. In warm light or artificial lighting, this undertone gets strong.
I’ve seen Alabaster look almost creamy-yellow in living rooms with warm LED bulbs and south-facing windows.
The RGB is 237, 234, 224 and HEX code is #EDEAE0.
I used Alabaster on a farmhouse renovation, and the homeowner sends me photos now too because she’s obsessed with how cozy it feels.
We did Alabaster on ALL the walls, trim, and the brick fireplace. With the wood floors and beige tones throughout the home, it was looking so good.
Let me put it this way: Alabaster LOVES homes with warm fixed elements.
It will create a great contrast if you’ve:
- Oak or cherry wood floors
- Beige tile or travertine
- Warm-toned countertops
- Brass or gold hardware
I will say this though, and I learned it on a project. Alabaster does NOT love cool-toned spaces. We painted a bathroom with Alabaster that had gray tile and chrome fixtures and it looked…. confused.
The warm undertone clashed with the cool gray, and we ended up repainting with Pure White.
I prefer you to use Alabaster for:
- Bedroom walls where you want that cozy vibe
- Exterior siding (it’s one of SW’s most popular exterior whites)
- Kitchen cabinets in farmhouse or traditional kitchens
- Living rooms with warm palettes and wood tones
One mistake I see people make is using Alabaster as trim with Alabaster walls. You lose all definition. If you’re going full Alabaster, you NEED to use different finishes….
Sherwin Williams Pure White Vs Alabaster: Key Differences
Here’s where I’m gonna break down what differentiates these two, because when you look at the paint swatches in the store they look almost identical. But on the walls they are totally different.
The difference between Pure White and Alabaster comes down to four main things: the LRV, the undertones, how they behave in different lighting, and where they work best.
Let me break each one down because this is where most people make mistakes.
LRV
Light Reflectance Value is a number from 0 to 100 that tells you how much light a color reflects back, 0 is pure black, 100 is pure white.
Pure White comes in at 84 LRV and Alabaster is 82 LRV.
The 2-point difference sounds like nothing…. And in most rooms, you won’t see a difference in brightness. Both are HIGH reflectance whites that bounce a lot of light around.
But it becomes visible when you put them next to each other. Pure White looks slightly brighter and cleaner and Alabaster looks slightly softer and muted.
In a room with natural light, both will feel bright and airy. In a dark room or hallway, you see Alabaster feeling heavy.
I had a client once who wanted the BRIGHTEST white possible without going in harsh-white territory. We tested Pure White, Alabaster, and others.
They picked Pure White because the extra bit of LRV gave it the brightness it wanted while staying soft.
Undertones
Undertones is the deciding factor between Sherwin Williams Pure White Vs Alabaster.
Pure White has a subtle gray undertone. It’s so subtle that most people don’t see “gray,” they see “clean neutral white.” But the gray is what keeps Pure White from looking yellow or creamy and it stays BALANCED.
Alabaster has a warm beige-cream undertone with a hint of yellow. This is what gives this color a cozy, inviting feel. But it’s also what can make it look too warm or slightly yellow in some lighting.
I always tell clients…. if you hold Pure White and Alabaster next to each other, Alabaster will look warmer and creamier and Pure White will look cooler and cleaner.
The undertone is what determines whether a white “plays well” with your existing elements.
Pure White’s gray undertone makes it work with BOTH warm and cool palettes. I’ve used it in homes with beige finishes, and I’ve used it in modern spaces with black and white contrast and trust me it adapts.
Alabaster’s warm undertone means it wants to be in a WARM space. It loves wood, beige, cream, warm metals like brass and gold. But put it with cool grays, white marble, or chrome, and it will look out of place.
So, when people ask me “which undertone is better,” I always say it depends on what you’re pairing it with.
Lighting Behaviour
This is where these two whites show their differences, and this is one of the main reasons I ask clients to sample both in their space.
Pure White in different light:
North-facing rooms: It can look slightly muted and may look a touch cooler. The gray undertone becomes a bit more apparent. It is not bad, but it is just softer and less bright.
South-facing rooms: This is where Pure White performs best. It stays bright and clean without going yellow. When the warm southern light hits it, it looks like a beautiful soft white.
Artificial light: With warm LED bulbs, Pure White stays neutral. With cool LED bulbs, it may lean so slightly cool, but nothing dramatic will show up.
Alabaster in different light:
North-facing rooms: The cool northern light balances out Alabaster’s warmth. It feels warm but doesn’t go yellow. And this is a good thing.
South-facing rooms: I recommend you to BE CAREFUL here. I’ve seen Alabaster go very creamy and yellow in south-facing rooms, especially with warm light and it can be too much.
Artificial light: Warm LEDs make Alabaster look more yellow and creamy. If you have warm lighting throughout your home, Alabaster will look warm. Whereas, cool LEDs help tone it down.
I had this one bathroom project that taught me this. We painted it Alabaster, and during the day with natural light it looked beautiful and warm.
But in the night with the warm vanity lights, it looked YELLOW. We had to switch out the bulbs to cool the temperature LEDs to balance it.
Styling and Uses
These two whites shine in different spaces and styles, and this is where I have strong opinions after using both.
Pure White works best for:
Modern and transitional homes where you want clean lines and a fresh feel. I use this in open-concept spaces because it doesn’t shift tones as dramatically as Alabaster does.
Trim and doors in homes with warm wall colors. The slight gray undertone creates beautiful contrast without being harsh.
Cabinets paired with white quartz, marble, or cool countertops. Pure White matches the cool undertones and doesn’t clash.
Whole-house color in homes where you want flexibility with decor. You can go warm OR cool with your furnishings and Pure White adapts it very well.
Spaces with black accents and modern finishes. Pure White loves the high-contrast modern look.
Alabaster works best for:
Traditional, farmhouse, and rustic interiors. This is Alabaster’s best choice because this color just BELONGS in cozy, warm spaces.
Bedrooms where you want a soft, inviting feel. I’ve never had a client complain that Alabaster felt too cold in a bedroom.
Exterior siding, especially on homes with stone, brick, or wood elements. Alabaster is one of SW’s top exterior whites for a reason.
Cabinets in farmhouse kitchens with wood countertops or warm-toned quartz. It creates a soft off-white cabinetry look everyone wants.
Living rooms with lots of wood furniture, warm textiles, and earthy tones, look the best in Alabaster.
Homes with beige tile, travertine, or other warm fixed elements you can’t change.
Here’s my honest opinion: If you’re doing a whole house and you’re not sure, Pure White is the safe one. It’s versatile and forgiving. Alabaster is beautiful but it’s picky about WHERE it wants to be used.
Comparison Table
| Feature | Pure White (SW 7005) | Alabaster (SW 7008) |
| LRV | 84 – Slightly brighter | 82 – Slightly softer |
| Undertone | Subtle gray – stays neutral | Warm beige-cream with hint of yellow |
| Temperature | Neutral to slightly cool | Warm |
| Best Lighting | South-facing rooms, balanced in most light | North-facing rooms, careful in south-facing |
| Style Fit | Modern, transitional, Scandinavian, minimalist | Traditional, farmhouse, rustic, cozy |
| Works With | Both warm and cool palettes, cool countertops, black accents | Warm palettes, wood tones, beige, brass, gold |
| Best Uses | Trim, whole-house modern, cabinets with cool counters | Walls in cozy spaces, exterior, farmhouse cabinets |
| Risk Factor | Can feel flat in north-facing rooms | Can look too yellow in south-facing warm light |
How Do Pure White and Alabaster Look in Different Spaces?
I get asked this question a lot…. So I’m gonna walk through the main rooms and tell you what I’ve seen work and what I’ve seen fail with sherwin williams pure white vs alabaster.
Because here’s the thing…. a white that looks perfect on living room walls may not look good in a bathroom. The lighting, the fixed elements, the size of the space…. all of it changes how these whites perform.
So, let’s go and see for yourself.
Living Room
Living rooms are interesting because they’re the big space and the room with the most windows, which means they get good light.
Pure White in living rooms:
I’ve used Pure White in many living rooms. It works best in MODERN or transitional spaces where you want a clean backdrop for furniture and art.
If your living room has:
- Large windows, especially south-facing
- Cool-toned furniture or gray sofas
- Black accents or modern lighting fixtures
- Hardwood floors in medium to dark tones
- An open concept connecting to kitchen/dining
….Pure White is probably your best move.
I did this one loft conversion where the living room had floor-to-ceiling windows and concrete floors. Pure White made the space feel bright and airy without feeling cold. The gray undertone picked up the concrete tones and tied everything together.
BUT…. if your living room is north-facing and doesn’t get much natural light, Pure White can feel flat.
Alabaster in living rooms:
Alabaster shines in living rooms that are traditional or cozy.
If your living room has:
- Wood furniture and warm-toned upholstery
- Beige or cream carpet or rugs
- Brass or gold light fixtures
- A fireplace with beige stone or brick
- Less natural light or north-facing windows
I recommend you to….go with Alabaster.
I painted my own living room in Alabaster and I’m in love with it till now. It has oak floors, a beige sectional, and warm lighting throughout. The Alabaster walls make everything feel cohesive and inviting. At night with the lamps, it glows in a warm way.
But remember, Alabaster in living rooms which are south-facing windows with lots of warm afternoon light can look too creamy. So, I suggest to sample it first.
Bedroom
Bedrooms are where undertone matters because you want the space to feel RELAXING, and the wrong white can mess it.
Pure White in bedrooms:
I use Pure White in bedrooms less than Alabaster, but it works in specific situations.
Modern primary bedrooms are cool bedding with minimal decor. But if you’re going for the hotel-minimalist aesthetic, then go with Pure White.
Guest bedrooms that need to feel clean and neutral for anyone’s taste.
Bedrooms with lots of black and white contrast or gray tones.
I had one client who wanted an all-white bedroom…. white walls, white bedding, white furniture. We used Pure White because the slight gray undertone kept it from feeling too warm or creamy. It looked fresh and intentional.
Alabaster in bedrooms:
For me personally, this is where Alabaster works the best.
Bedrooms are supposed to feel COZY and warm, and Alabaster does that naturally. I’ve specified Alabaster for bedrooms more than any other room.
Like kids’ bedrooms, primary bedrooms, guest rooms…. Alabaster works in all of them as long as the existing elements are warm or neutral.
I remember this one primary bedroom where the client had a wooden bed frame, cream duvet, and gold table lamps. And we painted it Alabaster and used Pure White on the trim in semi-gloss. The contrast was subtle but perfect, and the room felt warm.
Even in north-facing bedrooms where Alabaster may not get warmth from the light, it looks warm because the undertone is present.
Bathroom
Bathrooms are a bit tough because they have the most fixed elements you can’t change…like tile, countertops, fixtures, lighting.
Pure White in bathrooms:
If your bathroom has:
- White or gray tile
- Marble or white quartz countertops
- Chrome or brushed nickel fixtures
- Cooler-toned grout
Pure White is the best color to go with.
I finished a bathroom remodel where we had white subway tile and Carrara marble counters. Pure White on the walls tied everything together and didn’t fight with the cool marble veining.
Bathrooms with lots of mirrors also do well with Pure White because it reflects light beautifully without adding warmth that can clash with the reflections.
Alabaster in bathrooms:
Be careful with Alabaster in bathrooms.
If your bathroom has:
- Beige or cream tile
- Warm-toned stone countertops
- Brass, gold, or oil-rubbed bronze fixtures
- Warm lighting around the vanity
….then Alabaster can work quite well.
But I’ll be honest, I’ve had mixed results with Alabaster in bathrooms. The artificial lighting in bathrooms can make Alabaster look yellow. If we needed to make it work…. we had to change out bulbs in the bathroom because Alabaster will look too warm in the night.
Kitchen
Kitchens are where I get the questions about these two whites, specifically for CABINETS.
Pure White in kitchens:
For walls: Pure White works great in kitchens with great natural light and modern finishes. Open-concept kitchens that flow into living and dining areas benefit from Pure White’s neutrality.
For cabinets: This is where Pure White shines for me.
Pure White works in the kitchen if you have:
- White quartz or marble countertops
- Stainless steel appliances
- Cool-toned backsplash tile
- Chrome or brushed nickel hardware
Pure White cabinets stay clean and fresh. They don’t compete with cool countertops, and they make the kitchen feel bright and modern.
I did a kitchen with Pure White cabinets, white quartz counters, and a gray subway tile backsplash. And everything flowed together perfectly because the gray undertone in Pure White enhanced the gray tile.
Alabaster in kitchens:
Alabaster cabinets have become popular because of the farmhouse trend.
If you want the soft, off-white cabinetry look, Alabaster is what you should go for.
Alabaster works best with:
- Wood or butcher block countertops
- Warm-toned quartz or granite
- Brass or gold hardware
- Beige or cream backsplash tile
- Farmhouse or traditional kitchen style
I will say…. Alabaster cabinets require commitment to a warm palette. You can’t mix cool and warm easily. Everything needs to look warm or it looks off.
For walls: Alabaster walls in kitchens can work but you have to be careful with lighting. Kitchens usually have lots of task lighting, and if the bulbs are warm, Alabaster can look yellow.
Exterior
I’ve done fewer exteriors than interiors, but I’ve seen enough to know how these whites perform outside.
Pure White exterior:
It creates a clean, fresh look without being harsh, also it works on modern homes and contemporary builds.
I’ve seen Pure White used on fiber cement siding with black trim and it looked sharp. The gray undertone kept it from looking flat against the bright sky.
Handles direct sunlight well without going too warm.
Alabaster exterior:
This is one of Sherwin Williams’ MOST POPULAR exterior whites, and I get why.
It has a soft, welcoming look that works on so many home styles….like farmhouse, craftsman, traditional.
Alabaster pairs beautifully with natural materials like stone and brick. I saw one house with Alabaster siding and natural stone accents and it was looking stunning.
It’s warm enough to feel inviting but not so warm that it looks cream or yellow on the exterior.
If I had to pick ONE of these for exterior use, Alabaster is what I will go for because of its versatility on most home styles.
Comparing Pure White and Alabaster with Other Colors
Okay, I get Pure White vs Alabaster, but there are the OTHER whites out there too. Because Sherwin Williams has millions of whites and Benjamin Moore has another million, and it gets overwhelming.
I’m gonna compare these two with some other popular whites that clients ask about. Let me break down the most common comparisons because this is where people get confused in analysis.
Snowbound Vs Pure White Vs Alabaster
Snowbound (SW 7004) has an LRV of 83, so it’s right between Pure White and Alabaster in terms of brightness.
But here’s where it gets different….
Snowbound has a warm gray undertone with a slight violet touch. It’s not as neutral as Pure White and not as warm as Alabaster. It is in a middle that can work well but isn’t as versatile as these two.
I’ve used Snowbound when clients want a white that has MORE character than Pure White but isn’t as warm as Alabaster. It has a subtle complexity that looks different in different lights.
But honestly, Snowbound is picky about where it works. The violet undertone can look so purple in some lighting, especially north-facing rooms or with cool LED bulbs.
Pure White is versatile for whole-house use. Alabaster is better if you want warmth. Snowbound is for when you want something interesting.
Pure White Vs Extra White Vs Alabaster
Extra White (SW 7006) has an LRV of 86, making it brighter than both Pure White and Alabaster.
Extra White is cool and fresh. It’s what I call a “true white” rather than a “soft white.”
If you see these three color side-by-side:
- Extra White looks the brightest and coolest
- Pure White looks softer and slightly warmer than Extra White
- Alabaster looks the warmest and creamiest
I use Extra White mostly for TRIM when the walls are a color. It creates sharp, clean contrast.
But for walls, Extra White can feel too harsh and cold unless you’re going for the modern, gallery-like aesthetic.
Pure White is the middle ground…. brighter than Alabaster, softer than Extra White.
Alabaster Vs White Dove
White Dove is a Benjamin Moore color (OC-17) with an LRV around 83.
This comparison comes up because White Dove and Alabaster are both popular warm whites.
They’re so similar, but White Dove is slightly more neutral with a hint of pink undertone in some lights, while Alabaster looks more beige-yellow.
I’ve used both extensively and…. they’re interchangeable in most situations.
The difference is so subtle that I let brand availability and price decide. If someone’s already buying Sherwin Williams paint, go with Alabaster. If they prefer Benjamin Moore, White Dove is great.
White Dove can be slightly better in north-facing rooms because it doesn’t have much yellow undertone like Alabaster.
Pure White Vs Simply White
Simply White is a Benjamin Moore color (OC-117) with an LRV around 89, making it BRIGHTER than Pure White.
Simply White also has a warm undertone, more visible yellow than Pure White’s gray.
So if you’re comparing:
- Pure White → soft white with gray undertone, with an LRV of 84
- Simply White → bright white with yellow undertone, with an LRV of 89
They’re from different categories. Simply White competes more with Extra White in brightness, but it’s warmer.
I use Simply White when clients want a WHITE that’s bright but not cold. It’s warmer than Extra White but brighter than Alabaster.
Pure White is in a different space…. soft, neutral and less bright.
If you want maximum brightness without going harsh then go with Simply White but if you want soft neutrality, then go with Pure White
Sherwin Williams Pure White Vs Alabaster Vs Greek Villa
Greek Villa (SW 7551) is less mentioned but it comes up.
Greek Villa has an LRV of 84 (same as Pure White) but it’s WARMER, which is somewhere between Pure White and Alabaster.
It has a soft cream undertone that’s warmer than Pure White but not as beige-yellow as Alabaster.
I’ve used Greek Villa in traditional homes where Pure White felt too cool but Alabaster felt too warm.
But honestly, it’s harder to work with than either Pure White or Alabaster because it’s less predictable. The cream undertone can show up differently in various lighting.
If you’re deciding between these three, I’d say pick Pure White for versatility or Alabaster for warmth. Greek Villa is for when you’ve tested the other two and neither feels right.
Comparison Table
| Color | LRV | Undertone | Temperature | Best For |
| Pure White | 84 | Subtle gray | Neutral-cool | Modern spaces, trim, versatile whole-house |
| Alabaster | 82 | Warm beige-cream | Warm | Traditional spaces, cozy rooms, exteriors |
| Extra White | 86 | Cool, minimal | Cool | Trim work, modern stark spaces |
| Snowbound | 83 | Warm gray-violet | Neutral-warm | Spaces wanting character, less versatile |
| Simply White (BM) | 89 | Yellow-warm | Warm | Bright warm spaces, maximizing light |
| White Dove (BM) | 83 | Slight warm-pink | Warm | Interchangeable with Alabaster, traditional |
| Greek Villa | 84 | Soft cream | Warm | Between Pure White and Alabaster warmth |
What Colors Are A Good Match For Sherwin Williams Pure White?
Pure White’s neutral-gray undertone makes it play well with many colors, which is why I love it so much.
The gray keeps it from clashing with cool tones, but it’s soft enough that it doesn’t fight with warm colors either.
Here are colors I’ve seen it paired with Pure White:
For walls with Pure White trim:
- Agreeable Gray (SW 7029) – This is my most common pairing. Agreeable Gray walls with Pure White trim is a classic combination that works in most homes.
- Repose Gray (SW 7015) – Slightly cooler than Agreeable Gray, but works beautifully with Pure White trim.
- Accessible Beige (SW 7036) – If you want warmth on the walls, this greige works perfectly with Pure White’s neutrality.
- Naval (SW 6244) – Deep navy walls with Pure White trim creates stunning contrast in dining rooms or libraries.
- Evergreen Fog (SW 9130) – Soft green-gray that looks modern and calm with Pure White trim.
For accent walls or decor with Pure White walls:
- Tricorn Black (SW 6258) – Pure White loves black accents. This creates bright modern contrast.
- Iron Ore (SW 7069) – A softer black-gray that’s less harsh but creates definition.
- Cityscape (SW 7067) – Medium gray that adds depth without being too dark.
- Pewter Green (SW 6208) – Muted sage green that brings in color without overwhelming.
- Silvermist (SW 7621) – Soft blue-gray for bedrooms or bathrooms.
For cabinetry or built-ins with Pure White walls:
- Cyberspace (SW 7076) – Deep charcoal for modern kitchen cabinets.
- Urbane Bronze (SW 7048) – Warm dark brown that creates rich contrast.
- Pure White itself – Don’t forget, Pure White walls with Pure White cabinets in different finishes work great.
The key with Pure White is that it doesn’t ADD warmth or coolness strongly, so you can go either direction with your pairings. But make sure your lighting supports whatever direction you choose.
What Colors Are A Good Match For Sherwin Williams Alabaster?
Alabaster’s warm undertone means it wants to be paired with OTHER warm colors or strong contrasts.
You can’t do cool grays or cool blues with Alabaster….because it’ll look off.
Here are colors I’ve seen it paired with Alabaster:
For walls with Alabaster trim:
- Accessible Beige (SW 7036) – Warmer greige that shares Alabaster’s warmth. This is my go-to for whole-home color schemes.
- Tony Taupe (SW 7038) – Warm taupe walls with Alabaster trim works in traditional homes.
- Kilim Beige (SW 6106) – Warm neutral that’s slightly darker than Alabaster, creates subtle contrast.
- Urbane Bronze (SW 7048) – If you want dramatic contrast, this deep warm brown looks stunning with Alabaster trim.
- Svelte Sage (SW 6164) – Soft warm green that pairs well with Alabaster’s cream undertone.
For accent walls or decor with Alabaster walls:
- Tricorn Black (SW 6258) – Yes, even warm whites look great with black. Creates definition.
- Iron Ore (SW 7069) – Softer than pure black, still creates contrast.
- Warm Caramel tones – Think terracotta, rust, burnt orange for accent decor.
- Deep wood tones – Walnut, cherry, oak furniture all look beautiful against Alabaster.
- Brass and gold metals – These warm metals are PERFECT with Alabaster.
For cabinetry or built-ins with Alabaster walls:
- Alabaster itself – Alabaster cabinets with Alabaster walls in different finishes is popular for farmhouse kitchens.
- Urbane Bronze (SW 7048) – Creates warm contrast for kitchen islands or bathroom vanities.
- Natural wood tones – Leave wood cabinets natural and let Alabaster walls complement them.
The trick with Alabaster is staying in the WARM family. Cool colors will clash with the beige-cream undertone.
Conclusion
After comparing both Sherwin Williams Pure White Vs Alabaster, here’s what I tell everyone who asks….
There’s no “better” white between these two. There’s only the RIGHT white for YOUR space and YOUR style.
Pure White is the neutral, adaptable, works-with-everything white. The subtle gray undertone keeps it balanced and prevents it from ever looking too warm or too yellow.
I use this when I want a clean, modern feel or when a space has both warm and cool elements.
Alabaster is a warm, cozy, inviting white. The beige-cream undertone makes spaces feel soft and traditional. I use this when the home is warm…. wood floors, beige tile, brass fixtures…. and when the client wants the farmhouse or traditional vibe.
My personal take after using it, that tests them both. One will feel right when you see it on your walls with your lighting and your furniture.
Make sure to look before committing because it will make your space worth having or will make it look off.
FAQs on Sherwin Williams Pure White Vs Alabaster
Alabaster is a soft warm white with a beige-cream undertone and a hint of yellow. It has an LRV of 82, which makes it a high-reflectance white that feels cozy rather than harsh. It’s warmer and creamier than Pure White, and it looks like an off-white rather than a true white.
No, Pure White is NOT too white for walls. With an LRV of 84, it’s classified as a soft white rather than a bright or harsh white. Pure White has a subtle gray undertone that keeps it from feeling cold like true bright whites such as Extra White or High Reflective White. I’ve used Pure White on walls in many homes and it creates a clean, fresh look without being harsh.
Yes, Alabaster and Pure White can work together, but you need to be intentional about it. I most commonly use Pure White trim with Alabaster walls in traditional or farmhouse-style homes. The contrast is subtle since both are whites, but Pure White looks slightly cooler and fresh next to Alabaster’s warmth. The KEY is using different finishes…. eggshell or flat for Alabaster walls and semi-gloss or satin for Pure White trim.
Don’t use Pure White if you want a distinctly WARM white…. it won’t give you the cozy, creamy feeling because of its gray undertone. Also avoid Pure White in north-facing rooms with limited natural light where you need warmth, as it can look flat or slightly dull. Don’t use it in homes where all your fixed elements are warm…. beige tile, golden oak floors, travertine, warm granite…. because it won’t harmonize with the warm tones.
